World trip à la carte
Tastes that melt in the mouth, different cultures clashing in cooking pots, and pleasures that linger in the memory forever: food is so much more than the mere satisfaction of a need. With their art, these chefs of haute cuisine transport us to other worlds.
17 June 2022
Blue Hill - Tarrytown/USA
Progressive and consistently sustainable cuisine
About 50 kilometres north of Manhattan, Chef Dan Barber serves his progressive creations in an atmospheric farmhouse. This in turn is surrounded by 32 hectares of land - which is also where the ingredients for his 30-course tasting menu come from. What was still underground in the morning is already part of the dinner in the evening. In addition to this absolute freshness, Barber's philosophy also includes producing food that leaves as small an ecological footprint as possible. Environmentally friendly low-waste practices are therefore used in the kitchen. He regularly holds TED talks on this topic, and also works with seed producers to breed particularly tasty vegetable varieties.
©Alice Gao
Awards:
Two Michelin stars, "Michelin Green Star" for sustainable cuisine, "Chefs' Choice Award 2018".
Signature Dish:
Dry-aged golden beef steak, honey semifreddo with strawberry compote.
Blue Hill at Stone Barns
630 Bedford Rd, Tarrytown, NY 10591, United States
Tel: +1 914 366 9600
Web: bluehillfarm.com
Price: Between € 170,-/person and € 240,-/person
Related: 4 Tips for a Successful Trip to New York in the Fall
Kjolle - Barranco/Peru
Colourful Peruvian creations from the Amazon to the Andes
Pía León is no stranger to the restaurant scene - together with her husband Virgilio Martínez, she has already cooked at the multiple award-winning "Central". With "Kjolle" (pronounced "Koy-ay") she is now treading her own culinary path, and in the same building as "Central". The focus is on colourful dishes made from the best ingredients Peru has to offer. The nine-course tasting menu, vegetarian on request, is enjoyed in front of the open kitchen, in an establishment whose furnishings are also made of 100 percent Peruvian material. Even the plates are made of cedar and capirana wood from the Amazon rainforest.
©Kjolle
Awards:
Pía León is "World's Best Female Chef 2021".
Signature Dish:
River shrimp with coconut, dried meat and strawberries, ox cheeks with corn, chili and purple cabbage.
Kjolle
Av. Pedro de Osma 301, Barranco 15063, Peru
Tel: +51 1 2428575
Web: kjolle.com
Price: Tasting Menu "Kjolle Experience", € 100,- per person, wine accompaniment around € 50,-.
©Gustavo Vivanco
Coke - Ilimanaq Lodge/Greenland
Centuries-old cooking tradition meets New Nordic Cuisine
Chef Poul Andrias Ziska, just 32, likes to use techniques such as fermenting, smoking, fermenting and curing to serve his interpretation of Nordic cuisine from what the region has to offer. Vegetables are the exception; nose-to-tail is not a buzzword here. It can happen that the kitchen team goes out and gets the ingredients for the fish and seafood courses themselves from the rough ocean. Originally located on the Faroe Islands, the "Coke" can still be found until 2023 at the "Ilimanaq Lodge" on the edge of the spectacular Unesco World Heritage Site of the Ilulissat Icefjord in Greenland.
©Claes Bech-Poulsen
Awards:
Two Michelin stars, "Michelin Green Star" for sustainable cuisine.
Signature Dish:
Crawfish Rolls, Fermented Ocean Perch with Lamb Intestines and Cheese.
Coke
3VMP+46P, Ilimanaq, Greenland
Tel: +299 944300
Web: coke.fo
Price: Tasting Menu approx. € 280,- per person, wine accompaniment approx. € 215,- per person
Odette - Singapore
Modern French cuisine in a feminine ambience
Chef Julien Royer's cuisine is driven by his great respect for seasonal and high-quality ingredients, which he sources from the best producers around the world. True to his French roots, Royer serves haute cuisine with Asian influences. The restaurant's name is also a reference to his personal history. "Odette" was the name of his grandmother, who inspired him to become a chef. The ambience of the restaurant is uncharacteristically feminine for high-end cuisine: cream and delicate pink tones predominate. They create the ideal setting for what follows, namely an exceedingly elegant fine dining experience with partly harmonious, partly contrasting flavours.
©Odette
Awards:
"Best Restaurant in Singapore" 2019-2021, three Michelin stars.
Signature Dish:
Normandy Brown Crab with wasabi oil and nashi pears, miso-glazed endive, crab tartare with clam cream and caviar.
Odette
1 St Andrew's Rd. #01-04, National Gallery, Singapore 178957
Tel: +65 6385 0498
Web: odetterestaurant.com
Price: Tasting Menu between approx. € 250,- per person and € 290,- per person
Wolfgat - Paternoster/South Africa
Excellent enjoyment in a 130 year old building
South African Kobus van der Merwe lives sustainability and works closely with local people to preserve the region's culinary heritage and traditions. Many of the ingredients for his cuisine, which is influenced by the west coast of South Africa, come from within a radius of less than ten kilometres. Just as impressive as his culinary creations is the restaurant's location: here, a maximum of 20 guests dine in an intimate atmosphere, while the terrace offers views of the sea and the quiet fishing village of Paternoster. The restaurant is located in a 130-year-old building built around an archaeologically significant cave.
©StockFood/House & Leisure
Awards:
"Best Restaurant in Africa 2021", "Best Restaurant in the World 2019".
Signature Dish:
Springbok tenderloin with Saldanha Bay scallops and field greens, flatbread with Wolfgat Signature Butter.
Wolfgat
10 Sampson St. Kliprug, 7381 Paternoster, South Africa
Web: wolfgat.co.za
Price: Seven-course tasting menu at about € 70,- per person
Sirocco - Bangkok/Thailand
Creative cuisine right on the river - with a view over the city
The location of the "Sirocco" alone is worth a visit, because those who indulge in a tasting menu here do so with a breathtaking view over the rooftops of Bangkok. To make the vision of the highest al fresco dining restaurant come true, 100 tons of steel were required. These are enthroned on the 63 floors of the "Lebua" hotel - so you should have a certain amount of head for heights. Or you can simply fix your gaze on the wonderful creations from the kitchen: These take guests on a Mediterranean journey, from Mykonos to Nice to Rome, from Barcelona to Tunis to Beirut. You're sure to say "Wow!" here more than once per evening.
©Sirocco
Awards:
"World Travel Award" as "Asia's Leading Hotel Rooftop Restaurant & Bar".
Signature Dish:
"Kiwami" Wagyu Sirloin No. 9+ with roasted vegetables and beef jus, dessert "A Ballerina & Berries" with yogurt and pistachio mousse.
Sirocco at Lebua
State Tower 1055/111 Silom Road, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Tel: +66 2 624 9999
Web: lebua.com
Price: Tasting Menu approx. € 145,- per person
Mingles - Seoul/South Korea
Where influences from Korea, Hong Kong and Europe meet
Chef Mingoo Kang learned his craft from cooking legend Martin Berasategui in San Sebastián and worked at Nobu Miami. In 2014, he opened his own restaurant in the lively Cheongdam-dong district. Here he focuses on long-forgotten ingredients, such as dotori-muk (acorn flour pudding) and bellflower root. Mingoo Kang takes his time; some dishes require more than two days of preparation. To ensure that nothing distracts guests from the taste of his creations, he serves them in a minimalist setting. From time to time, Zen Buddhist Jeong Kwan, known from television for his vegan cooking skills, drops by to cook together.
©Choi Joon Ho
Awards:
Best Restaurant in Korea 2019 and 2021, two Michelin stars, ranked tenth in "Asia's 50 Best Restaurants".
Signature Dish:
Bansang (Korean dish with rice, soup, kimchi), zucchini "Seon" with green squash, anchovies and salted shrimp.
Mingles
2F, 19 Dosan-daero 67-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
Tel: +82 2 515 7306
Web: restaurant-mingles.com
Price: Tasting Menu from about € 70,- per person
©Yongjoon Choi
Noma - Copenhagen/Denmark
Nordic food inspired by a survival manual
Noma - its name is a combination of the words "nordisk" and "mad," meaning "Nordic food" - was opened in 2003 in an old warehouse building by René Redzepi and Claus Meyer. The two found the inspiration for their cuisine in a Swedish army survival manual, which described how to survive in wartime using products from nature. Meanwhile, Noma can be found on a rampart. The menu features only local produce - seafood from January to June, and vegetables take the lead from June to September. During the rest of the year, game and forest products are served.
©Noma
Awards:
Three Michelin stars, five times "World's Best Restaurant", most recently in 2015 and 2021.
Focus:
"Food that looks like other food" - e.g., caramels masquerading as starfish.
Noma
Refshalevej 96, 1432 Copenhagen, Denmark
Tel: +45 32 96 32 97
Web: noma.dk
Price: Ocean Menu from approx. € 390,- per person, wine accompaniment approx. € 240,- per person
This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Spring 2022.