© carolineseidler.com

The Eisack Valley between Bressanone and Chiusa is the northernmost wine-growing region in Italy. On the steep slopes of this wine region of South Tyrol grow grape varieties that are otherwise only found north of the Alps: Kerner and Silvaner are widespread, but Grüner Veltliner, Riesling or Pinot Grigio also thrive magnificently. In the mighty Kloster Neustift, viticulture has been practiced since the 12th century; a visit to the wine tavern and the surrounding vineyards is quite the experience here. The old bishop's town of Brixen invites you to discover its arcades and winding alleys. For a stay, the hotel Halleris a good choice, located in the middle of the vineyards above the city. Those who prefer more dignified tradition should stay at the Hotel Elephant: The hotel and inn have been in existence since the late Middle Ages, and with junior chef Michael Falk and talented chef Mathias Bachmann, there's a welcome breath of fresh air blowing here right now.

No hill where wine does not grow - many small farmers also offer their special wines. © Oskar Da Riz

Wine city Bolzano 

The Kurtatsch Winery produces wines full of character in a sustainable way. © OskarDaRiz

The next stop is the provincial capital of Bolzano. It becomes clear that it's an important wine town less than two kilometers from the city center. There, in the small town of St. Magdalena, young, committed winemakers are currently taking over the tradition of their fathers and focusing on the local Vernatsch. Christian Plattner from the Ansitz Waldgries is already one of the established ones. In the western district of Gries lies the home of Lagrein, an esteemed autochthonous red wine variety. Shortly before the city limits, we stop at the Bolzano Winery, where the entire range of the South Tyrol wine region is on display in the light-flooded tasting room.

Splendidly carved wooden barrels still stand in the St. Michael-Eppan winery today. © Klaus Peterlin

The wine village of Terlan is famous for long-lived white wines. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and some Sauvignon blanc has made a global name for itself as Terlaner Cuvée. Particularly prized for its whites is the Winery Terlan, a winemaking cooperative of the highest caliber. The red porphyry slopes are also well suited for red wines, however, as demonstrated by the Winery Kornell, located in the Siebeneich district. Findings prove that viticulture has been practiced here since the Romans. Today Florian Brigl and his team produce powerful Merlot, Cabernet and Lagrein here. The fine white wines, which are also available in the house, come from the other side of the valley.

From the outside, the Bolzano Winery looks like a giant vine leaf in the shape of a cube. © Oskar Da Riz

There lies the Überetsch - Eppan with its districts Girlan, St. Pauls and St. Michael and the market town Kaltern are the largest wine villages in South Tyrol. The high, chalky sites are ideal for white wines, with Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay predominating. Hans Terzer, cellar master of the Winery St. Michael-Eppan, is one of the pioneers of the South Tyrol wine region. Even though he will soon retire, his successor Jakob Gasser will continue to lead the business. In the neighboring village of Girlan, the Winery Cooperative has become one of the most important Pinot Noir producers in recent years. With their Super-Südtiroler called Vigna Ganger, and their Curlan and Trattmann they have an exciting range of Pinot noir. The classic Vernatsch Gschleier von alten Reben should also not be forgotten.

The South Tyrolean South

 © kellereibozen.com / Oscar Dariz

At Lake Kaltern, you are far in the south; cypresses announce the Mediterranean climate. The vineyards around the largest and warmest bathing lake in South Tyrol produce a fruity, light red wine, which among other things, the Kellerei Kaltern helps to achieve new renown. In the next village, the Winery Tramin rises from the vineyards like a climbing vine; here, the fragrant, intense Gewürztraminer dominates. At Elena Walch, a generational change has taken place - the grande dame of South Tyrolean wine has stepped back somewhat in favor of her daughters Julia and Karoline. Increasingly, the Walchs relied on Pinot noir; especially the very good Pinot Nero Ludwig and the Aton, produced only in small editions.

Innovative architecture for old wines: The Kaltern Winery. © Alex Filz

Pinot noir also plays an important role on the opposite side of the valley, in Montan. Early on, Franziskus Haas recognized that this grape variety prefers cooler sites. His Pónkler is harvested at 800 meters and is considered one of the best from the south side of the Alps. After his death in 2022, the winery is successfully continued by his wife Luisa and son Franz junior. In turn, the romantic village center of Neumarkt is home to the sales outlet of Castelfeder. The new Chardonnay Kreuzweg is outstanding and one of the best in the wine region of South Tyrol. But back to the other side of the valley: those who love powerful red wines will certainly find what they are looking for at the Kellerei Kurtatsch. Our route ends in Margreid - here Alois Lageder's Vinothek im Paradeis offers fine wines and delicious dishes. There you can linger!