Why Venice is Worth a Visit Even in Winter
Venice's allure is timeless—especially during the months of the Biennale, when la dolce vita and the appreciation of art come together in the most beautiful way. Exquisite new hotels in magnificent historic palaces provide the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable trip to the city of canals.
December 12, 2024
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Almost everything said about Venice is true: the number of visitors far exceeds that of residents, the humidity on an August day is nearly unbearable, the cappuccino prices in St. Mark’s Square are laughable, and the pigeons are as large and tame as hens (the fact that they can fly feels almost mythical). Another undeniable truth is that few can resist the magic of the lagoon city. Venice is the epitome of beauty, a treasure trove of art and architecture—and thus the natural home of the Biennale.
At times, Venice must fend off the overwhelming love of the world. Cruise ships, whose docking maneuvers near the Grand Canal once threatened the city's foundations, are now kept at a distance. The newly introduced entry fee—initially applied only on select dates—aims to find a silver lining in the flood of day-trippers: revenue. If you choose to stay overnight in Venice, you're exempt from the fee—and what could be more delightful than experiencing the city in the evening, when calm settles even over its most tourist-filled hotspots, and waking up here the next morning? Venice boasts hotels nearly as spectacular as its artistic treasures. These include classics like the legendary Cipriani on Giudecca Island, the Danieli on the Grand Canal, and the Gritti Palace, where Hemingway once stayed. But beyond these tried-and-true landmarks, there are also exciting newcomers making their mark in the lagoon.
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Many of Venice's hotels are located in historic palaces, once accessible only by birthright or invitation but now open to bookings. Others reflect the city’s deep connection to art, perpetuated by the Biennale, or its roots in trade, which propelled Venice to prominence during the Middle Ages. One example is the new five-star Nolinski Venezia, housed in the former Stock Exchange building, constructed in 1929. This stunning hotel blends Art Nouveau, Jugendstil, and Modernism. The building, surpassed in height only by the Campanile and the dome of St. Mark's Basilica, now features 30 elegant rooms and 13 suites spread across its five floors. The interiors draw inspiration from 1920s design, combining marble, stucco, and mango wood paneling with both classic and contemporary artworks, giving the impression of being in a private home curated by individuals with impeccable taste. The hotel’s gastronomy, under the direction of Michelin-starred chef Philip Chronopoulos, brings together the rich traditions of Mediterranean cuisine.
Magnificent palazzo in pastel
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In the Palazzo Experimental, opened in 2019 on the Giudecca Canal, interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon combined modern lines, Italian design, and a pastel color palette to create an ambiance of Adriatic vacation bliss. Beneath the cheerful surface of this four-star hotel lies the historic structure of the original palazzo. The restaurant Adriatica delights both hotel guests and locals with its charming aesthetic and culinary creations by Denis Begiqi. Soft colors, curved arches, and maritime stripe patterns place the restaurant firmly in the summery lagoon. Meanwhile, the Experimental Cocktail Club bar offers not only flavor explosions in every glass but also visual delight. For this project, Meilichzon collaborated with Milan-based designer Cristina Celestino, who studied architecture in Venice. With tinted marble and gilded mirrors, Celestino brought her vision of Venetian opulence to life.
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For those wanting to immerse themselves in the lifestyle of Venetian aristocrats, the Palazzo Cristo in the Castello district is the perfect choice—or rather, "sixth," as Venice is divided into six sestieri. This 13th-century palace, located near the Scuola Grande di San Marco and the equally historic Basilica of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, now houses four exquisitely luxurious apartments. Fireplaces and kitchen islands made of Carrara marble, materials like light travertine limestone and rare woods, as well as contemporary designer furniture in natural and pastel tones, give the suites a warm and inviting ambiance—something residents of centuries past, battling the lagoon's constant humidity, could only dream of. Today, Palazzo Cristo is an exclusive hideaway, with interiors that would make any Doge envious—if there were still any left. Space is in no short supply: the 1,700-square-foot Suite One boasts three bedrooms, a high-tech kitchen, and a private patio. Its rooms offer stunning views of the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo and the surrounding piazza.
A jewel in San Marco
A true treasure chest of Venetian craftsmanship, the family-run five-star hotel Violino d’Oro is housed in a palazzo just a few minutes' walk from St. Mark’s Square. You'll be greeted at the mirrored reception desk, adorned with a golden violin sculpture, by one of the charming front desk staff—perhaps the friendly head concierge Matteo or the charismatic general manager Annabella Cariello. “You’ll see me throughout your stay—sometimes here, sometimes there. I’m practically part of the furniture,” says Annabella, making every guest feel as though they’re visiting a longtime friend. The 32 rooms and suites, furnished with carefully selected antique and contemporary pieces, luxurious textiles, curated art objects, and elegant marble bathrooms, create an atmosphere of refined comfort. The hotel’s restaurant, aptly named Il Piccolo with just nine tables, focuses entirely on Venetian delights, from vegetables grown on the lagoon island of Sant’Erasmo to freshly caught fish from the lagoon itself.
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Located in the Ca’ da Mosto near the Rialto Bridge, the five-star hotel The Venice Venice is a tranquil oasis amidst the bustling tourist heart of the city. Inside, the historic architecture—with its high ceilings, wooden beams, exposed brickwork, and stunning views of the Grand Canal—remains beautifully preserved. The blend of old and contemporary artworks, minimalist designer furniture, and the timeless panoramas outside creates a dynamic contrast, making every moment of your stay an experience. This magic continues with breakfast by the water, long before the first day-trippers arrive at the train station, or a romantic candlelit dinner along the Grand Canal. By then, guests might realize their love for Venice could be everlasting.
Patrick Locqueneux
Reading tip: Venetian Beauty: the stars' favorite hotel in Venice
This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Fall 2024.