3. DO _CO Hotel München - Restaurant 1
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Culinary Metropolis Munich: Discover Germany's Fine Dining Mecca

Munich was already regarded as Germany's culinary metropolis - but recently, and after a whole series of new openings and restarts, the Bavarian capital has finally become a European hotspot for foodies.

May 7, 2024


Fritz Busiek

Jan Hartwig's restaurant had only been open for five months when the Michelin Guide awarded it the highest rating of three stars at the first attempt last year. Nevertheless, the award didn't come as a surprise. The 42-year-old had already made a name for himself beforehand when he also cooked up three stars at Bayerischer Hof. Without the help of financiers Hartwig managed to open his very own restaurant called Jan, which probably explains its location in a rather inconspicuous 1950s building. However, Hartwig's cuisine, which is characterized by precision and balance, is anything but inconspicuous - such as the tender red mullet, which is coated with yoghurt and strips of black garlic and plankton. It's a signature dish and a visual firework, to which a sauce made from piment d'Espelette adds character.

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Tohru in the Schreiberei, which opened two years ago, is also quite new. The latter is a magnificent 16th century town house that is considered to be the oldest in Munich. Head chef Tohru Nakamura is a Munich native with Japanese roots, which is clearly reflected in his work. For example, some dishes are served with chopsticks. The Japanese influences can also be seen in his ingredients and preparation methods. A good example would be his hamachi, a kind of sashimi of spiny mackerel, served with oyster, cucumber and seaweed.

München

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The mythical restaurant Tantris, with its stunning architecture from the 1970s, is also a breath of fresh air. Since the German-Canadian Benjamin Chmura followed in the footsteps of cooking legends such as Eckardt Witzigmann and Hans Haas in 2022, the upscale French cuisine that has always been served at Tantris has been reinterpreted in his own way. For example, there's Tourte de Tradition, a flawlessly composed pastry pie with sweetbreads and duck liver. Here, Chmura adds the necessary intensity with an elegant pinch of sage.

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But of course, you haven't really been to Munich if you haven't eaten veal sausages. The first address for this is the Gaststätte Großmarkthalle run by Ludwig "Wiggerl" Wallner. Wallner is a walking legend when it comes to the sausages that are so emblematic of the city. The man is not only a landlord, but also a butcher and produces his sausages in the basement of the restaurant. And so they're served here before they have ever been cooled. It couldn't be fresher.

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Read more: Don't miss out on these amazing restaurants in Munich

This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Spring 2024.

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