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“You could say that Rome’s most famous pasta dishes are ‘somewhat like sisters,’” says Pierluigi Roscioli. “The base is spaghetti cacio e pepe, made exclusively with cheese and pepper. If you add guanciale, air-dried pork cheek, it becomes spaghetti alla gricia; and if you then add tomatoes, you get spaghetti all’amatriciana,” explains the owner of the renowned Salumeria Roscioli, a delicatessen in the heart of the capital that is also considered a stronghold of traditional local cuisine.

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But Rome’s cuisine is by no means limited to pasta. As early as antiquity, the city's fertile surroundings enabled the rise of a city-state that ruled as far as the Middle East. During the Middle Ages, the distinctive cucina povera—a humble, peasant-style cuisine based on vegetables, legumes, and offal—emerged. Today, this once-modest culinary tradition is experiencing a strong resurgence.

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The historically significant Jewish community also left its mark, enriching local cuisine. The most famous example is carciofi alla giudìa, or “Jewish-style” artichokes, which are deep-fried in olive oil. Another classic is tortino con aliciotti e indivia, a savory casserole made with anchovies and endives. By contrast, abbacchio alla romana has deeply Catholic roots. This traditional Roman lamb dish is braised—originally in pork fat, though today often in olive oil—after being marinated with rosemary, sage, garlic, and preserved anchovies.

Susan Wright

The Romans also have a long-standing pizza tradition—one that differs from Naples, as Roman pizza is typically thinner, crispier, and has less crust. That’s why many locals aren’t too fond of hearing Naples, their southern rival, being called the home of pizza.

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The growing popularity of Roman cuisine is evident in the fact that the long-established Salumeria Roscioli opened a branch in New York just last year. Since day one, New Yorkers have been lining up to savor the famous “sister” pasta dishes—cacio e pepe, gricia, and amatriciana—or an authentic carbonara. Speaking of carbonara, legend has it that this dish was originally created in Rome during the city's liberation by American soldiers, who contributed the then-scarce eggs and smoked bacon. And so, in a way, history has come full circle. 

Read more: Why Rome is worth a trip now