Vienna: A Paradise for Foodies and Wine Lovers
Here, you'll find everything between relaxed fine dining and iconic doner kebab: In recent years, Vienna’s culinary scene has become noticeably younger and expanded its offerings. Plus, Vienna is a paradise for natural wine lovers.
October 25, 2024
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Vienna has always been a haven for cozy taverns. Its residents are practically glued to their pub chairs; they cherish their local spots and often stay loyal to them for life. They prefer to cut costs elsewhere, as going out to a tavern is as integral to their lifestyle as relaxing at traditional bathhouses like the Gänsehäufel or enjoying the famous Viennese “Schmäh” (dry humor). People know the owner, chat about everything from God and politics to the weather, all while watching who strolls by. Viennese people can be rushed and, yes, rather grumpy if things don’t go their way—but in the tavern, they find peace. With a schnitzel in front of them, they settle into a near-meditative state, becoming sociable and content.
In summer, the outdoor seating areas in front of the taverns are packed, and the Sommerspritzer—a refreshing, light white wine spritzer—is as popular as ever. Offal dishes, like Beuschel (a stew made from lungs and heart), along with brain and liver, are menu classics. Nose-to-tail eating has always been a proud staple of Viennese cuisine. Navigating the culinary spectrum between fine dining and a sausage stand is effortless for the locals: of course, during ball season, after a night of dancing in gowns and tuxedos, you’ll head to the Bitzinger sausage stand by the Albertina, where all the night owls meet. But a word of caution: ordering the famous Eitrige (a Viennese term for cheese-filled sausage) is now mostly reserved for German tourists trying to be quirky; the term has long faded among younger generations. Even the snack scene has evolved: at Alles Wurscht near Börseplatz, fermentation is all the rage, where you'll find kimchi instead of traditional coleslaw.
Viennese originals
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And people regularly queue outside "Ferhat Döner" in Favoriten to enjoy the incredibly creamy yogurt and sourdough bread in the kebab. Vienna has really stepped up its game when it comes to fast food in recent years: according to "Big 7 Travel", "XO Grill" even has the best burger in Europe! You'll find it on the Kettenbrückengasse. If you want to know more about street food in Vienna, you should definitely watch the videos "Hungry for More" - that's the name of the best online food guide to whet your appetite for Vienna. Michelin-starred chef Lukas Mraz takes a cheerful stroll through the city, showing culinary hotspots and Viennese originals in action. There's no better way to get to know the city with all its nooks and crannies, but also its loveliness, than in this format. The unconventional creative chef Mraz is a cult figure in Vienna anyway, he has made fine dining young and cool, taking all the stiffness out of it.
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Vienna has weathered the pandemic remarkably well. In recent years, numerous new establishments have opened, shaking up the city’s culinary scene—even in neighborhoods that aren't necessarily on the typical tourist map. "Rosebar Centrala" in Brigittenau (just around the corner from the Michelin-starred "Mraz & Sohn") offers Eastern European-inspired dishes in a minimalist, trendy setting. Another new addition is "Cucina Itameshi," the latest venture from the Mochi empire, known for its delicious ramen and other Japanese classics. At "Itameshi," they venture into an exciting fusion, blending Japanese and Italian cuisine.
© Restaurant Edvard Refreshing
Vienna has also been a natural wine paradise for years, being a pioneer of the global trend. Bars and restaurants like "Bruder" and "Rundbar" offer some of the most exciting natural wines; the atmosphere is trendy, and the crowd is young. At "Bruder," located centrally in a side street off Mariahilfer Straße, you can also enjoy original cocktails, as the owners love to experiment with fermented ingredients. And here, the classic Viennese humor comes free of charge.
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The Viennese love their markets, where they buy fresh produce. The Naschmarkt is famous and is a popular meeting place, especially on Saturdays with its flea market, but the Vorgartenmarkt in the second district is also worth a visit. The "C.O.P." recently opened a pop-up there, which is ideal for enjoying a warm summer evening. The fish, which is breaded or roasted whole, is legendary. It's always a good idea to share the sumptuous food. The cool "Café Azzurro" on Urban-Loritz-Platz is also very popular, the highlight being the kimchi treats; and the wine list is also impressive. "Bouvier Bistro" in the chic new "Hoxton" hotel serves an exciting mix of Austrian, French and American cuisine - and "Cayo Coco" bar on the roof is also a trendy hotspot for locals.
© Vienna Tourist Board/Peter Rigaud
What is an inn?
Julius Hirtzberger
"Limón" also offers a guaranteed view of Vienna, though its ambiance and menu transport you to the French Riviera. While the typical Viennese schnitzel is being prepared downstairs at "Meissl & Schadn" restaurant, "Limón," located on the eighth floor of "Hotel Grand Ferdinand," has a distinctly Mediterranean flair (including Crêpe Suzette flambéed at the table). And since schnitzel is also popular in Italy, you can at least order a Cotoletta alla Milanese.
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However, with all the new establishments, Vienna has become a bit less spontaneous. In the past, you didn’t need a reservation anywhere (except for fine dining), but now, even in Vienna, there are time slots, and you might struggle to find a table if you haven’t booked in advance. Otherwise, everything remains quite relaxed: there’s no need to dress up, and everyone is welcome. But what’s the difference between a "Gasthaus" and a "Wirtshaus"? A popular saying goes: In a Wirtshaus, the host is in charge; in a Gasthaus, the guest is. It may sound absurd, but it makes sense when you consider that the classic Viennese Wirtshaus was an institution heavily shaped by the personality of its host. Of course, in Vienna, people don’t just go out to eat—they also want to be entertained.
© Vienna Tourist Board/Paul Bauer
This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Summer 2024.