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Inside Innsbruck: The Heart of the Alps

The city on the Inn shines with its spectacular location: the 2600-meter-high Nordkette mountain range serves as its canvas. The city's gaze, however, has always been bound southward - where Innsbruck's lifestyle, culture and cuisine also find their inspiration.

June 20, 2024


Church towers like that of the Spitalskirche zum Heiligen Geist characterize the cityscape. © Unsplash

Whatever you pack for your trip to Innsbruck, you'll be spot on - and yet completely off the mark. Because the city in the heart of the Alps has so much to offer that you can hardly be prepared for everything. There are just 20 minutes between a visit to the Renaissance castle Ambras and a summit ascent on the Nordkette. So people here know their way around the ups and downs - which makes for a more relaxed atmosphere and a more colorful cityscape.

The rooms and suites in the old town hotel Weisses Kreuz inspire with reminiscences of the city's history. © provided

Strolling through historic alleyways in the medieval old town or enjoying a chic aperitif on the roof terrace of a trendy restaurant; ski boots and high heels, silk dresses and leather pants - they all get on well together and are probably what makes the city so charming. Therefore, the question of whether Innsbruck is more chic or sporty doesn't arise. You can plan your visit to Innsbruck however you like and of course change your mind at any time. The right outfit shouldn't be a problem. This is exactly what the range of classy boutiques, fine stores and first-class sports retailers specialize in. And regardless of whether it's fashion or food - you'll always encounter a slightly Italian flair that has long since become the city's own.

Olympus of the Alps

With its 2,657 gilded copper shingles and rich fresco and relief decoration, the Golden Roof has been an eye-catcher since 1500. © www.guentheregger.at

This is how the two-time Olympic city naturally likes to see itself - the hosting of the 1964 and 1972 Games has left its mark on the city. The architectural landmark is the ski jump at Bergisel, which was rebuilt in 2002 according to the plans of architect Zaha Hadid. Major events such as these have undoubtedly made Innsbruck more international. The city attracts tourists and students from all over the world, and they bring their freeride skis or mountain bikes with them.

Cross the river to the Mariahilf-St. Nikolaus district, which is a popular photo motif with its colorful row of houses and the mountains in the background. © Getty Images

From the Olympic flame back to the city's historical roots: these lie in the Roman settlement of Veldidena, where the famous Wilten Abbey and basilica are located today. The first time Innsbruck was of historical importance was at the beginning of the modern era: the city was the great love of Emperor Maximilian I. Here he could hunt, climb and fish - the first real Innsbrucker, if you like. And perhaps the man who laid the foundations for the city's leisure culture, which is so infectious. In Innsbruck, leisure time is not simply time that you have left over somewhere between work and duties. It's part of the attitude to life, which we will now explore in more detail on a short tour.

Breakfast culture

Café Katzung spoils you with homemade sweet treats. © David Johansso

Life in Innsbruck starts a good hour earlier than in other cities. Because if you want to get something out of life, you have to get up early. The coffee houses and stores also adapt to this rhythm. Even in the Alps, you can't do without coffee: you can find a fabulous espresso in the old town at La Pausa, and a croissant is a must. For those who love the classic, we recommend Café Central in Gilmstraße. Because the former royal seat also has that Viennese coffee house flair, grumpy waiters included. Brunch is very popular in Innsbruck, and here we recommend the hotels. Trendy hipster cafés, which can easily keep up with Berlin with their casual vintage style, can be found in the Wilten district.

Let's Go Shopping

You should definitely go shopping in Innsbruck. The fashion stag Einwaller with its old town boutiques Anna, Joseph and Icon sells everything from Alexander McQueen to Valentino or Zegna. By Fink's in Maria-Theresien-Straße offers sporty styles and elegant outfits through to glamorous pieces and brands such as Aspesi or Belstaff; a highlight is Dorothee Schumacher Corner. Hand-picked Italian fashion is what The Garderobe in Riesengasse stands for - owner Francesco is always one step ahead of the trends. Anyone looking for extravagance and designers like the Brazilian Marco Ribeiro should definitely visit e.c.t. Studio on Marktgraben. This fashion institution is much more than just a store. It also sees itself as a cultural platform with curated ideas that encompass fashion, music and art. Mirou in Meraner Straße is also dedicated to fashion outside the mainstream (such as Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons or Issey Miyake).

Jens Ellensohn Photography

Kaufhaus Tyrol or Rathausgalerien in Maria-Theresien-Straße also offer ideal shopping opportunities. A tip for lovers of the exclusive is Resort Concept Store in Erlerstraße with special features for living, cosmetics and lifestyle and brands such as Aesop, Hay and Ferm Living. At Reiter Design in Südbahnstraße, you can find inspiration in the exclusively furnished showrooms between Vitra and Artemide.

Innsbruck combines modern design and a lively bar culture, making the city a meeting place for creatives and night owls. © Alex Filz

Of course, Innsbruck is also a great place to eat and drink. Das Schindler attracts connoisseurs with its excellent cuisine, solid service, pleasant atmosphere and a busy bar. At Weissen Rössel in the heart of the old town, you'll find traditional and international cuisine at the highest level. We also recommend La Trattoria on Sparkassenplatz, which serves honest Italian cuisine. This list of good places could go on and on, for example with the small Korean restaurant Miso in the old town or the first house on the square, Sitzwohl in Gilmstraße. You can find drinks with a view at Adlers Restaurant & Bar and at Lichtblick on the seventh floor in the Rathausgalerien. Night owls can meet at Dunlin Bar in Erlerstraße for one of the signature cocktails, or at Liquid Diary on Adolf-Pichler-Platz. For those who are drawn uphill, we recommend Das Kofel at the Patscherkofelbahn mountain station: Highlights in summer are the Thursday evenings with sensational views of the Inn Valley.

Artful culture program

 Haus der Musik is also a highlight for architecture fans. © Günther Egger

As sporty as Innsbruck may seem, culture also plays a major role in the city. With the Festival Weeks of Early Music, Innsbruck has made a name for itself internationally; the Haus der Musik, now an urban landmark that acts as an interface between the Hofburg and the Tiroler Landestheater, offers a great program all year round.

The Swarovski Crystal Worlds store stands for a sparkling shopping experience with spectacular art installations. © provided

You'll find contemporary galleries in the city center as well as museums. Above all Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum and Volkskundemuseum, where you can also visit the legendary tomb of Emperor Maximilian and his Schwarze Mander, should be on your bucket list. An absolute must-see is of course the Golden Roof, the city's landmark, which was also built at the behest of Emperor Maximilian. Those who can't get enough of the imperial history should visit the Hofburg: There, guests can immerse themselves in the fascinating history of Maria Theresa, her husband Franz Stephan of Lorraine and their 16 children. The city's outstanding cultural treasures also include the Renaissance Ambras Castle with its magnificent park - the world's oldest museum that has been preserved at its original founding site awaits you here. Innsbruck is indeed a center of the Alps; a centuries-old hub and meeting point of European cultures, embedded in a mountain world that not only gives the city a magnificent panorama, but also influences all areas of life. Constant change is therefore the order of the day.

Read more: Tyrol: Foodie paradise

This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Tirol Special 2024.

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