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As subject to ever-changing moods and fashions, the way we travel has shifted over the years. The Alps, for example, used to be a summer destination long into the 20th century, before ski vacations took over as the main reason for going. Similarly, the French Riviera was a place for Europe’s pampered aristocracy to escape the cold north during the winter months. Today, their former hibernation villas serve as popular summer retreats.

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One of them is the dignified Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, located between Nice and Cannes. The property opened in 1870, back when a dedicated train carried invited guests to the French coast, a 15-course menu was served by the restaurant and background music supplied by an orchestra playing a waltz. More than 150 years later – after greats such as Claude Monet and W. S. Maugham were inspired by Antibes to paint and write – this special spot has become one of the most exclusive addresses in the world.

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The hotel at the tip of the rocky peninsula has been a rendezvous for a who’s who of the rich and famous since the 1920s. During the Cannes Film Festival in May, it becomes a refuge to the stars; in the summer, it’s the object of desire for countless paparazzi. The guestbook of names who have stayed in one of the 118 rooms ranges from F. Scott Fitzgerald and Coco Chanel to Clint Eastwood, Jacques Chirac and Madonna, and family dynasties including the Kennedys, Kardashians and the Hadids. Last year, model Sofia Richie, daughter of singer Lionel Richie, celebrated her wedding at the festively decorated estate.

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc
167-165 Bd J. F. Kennedy, 06160 Antibes, France
Tel.: +33 4 93 61 39 01
Web: oetkercollection.com
Price: Doubles from approx. €1200 per night 

DISCRETION WITH A CAPITAL D

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One of the most outstanding features of the hotel is its extensive grounds. An almost 200-meter-long avenue leads from the main house down to the swimming pool, which was blasted into the rock after World War I and now seems to float above the sea. To its left are tennis courts and spa rooms shaded by pines. To the right, the sea-facing Louroc restaurant draws guests for its views and exquisite cuisine, while bedrooms and suites are set either in the original building overlooking the avenue or in the pavilion above the bay.

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The success of the hotel is partly down to the unwavering discretion of its employees. A guest might appear for dinner with a mysterious woman on his arm; the next day he will join his wife for lunch. The staff just smile – and pretend not to notice.

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Once people have experienced this enchanting place, return trips are not uncommon. The hotel has a high number of regular guests – around 80 percent have spent a night in one of the elegantly furnished rooms before. Some of them even spent their childhood summers here with their parents. Back then, families were often accompanied by a chauffeur, a maid and a secretary. In some instances, if a family planned to come for a month, an interior designer would visit the room prior to their stay. If madame preferred the table over there, or the curtains in a different color, that would be no problem at all.

IN THE EYE OF THE PAPARAZZI

This secluded paradise only loses its magic when Cannes Film Festival takes place – and dozens of photographers lurk near the hotel, hoping for a glimpse of celebrity. They arrive by sea, but need to keep a distance of 300 meters – a yellow buoy marks the point that they cannot cross. An especially notorious instance was when Madonna spent a night here in 1992: the paparazzi gathered on a fleet of boats in the Mediterranean, and outside the gates hundreds of young women spent the night screaming: “Madonna, we love you!” The gate had to be locked at all times.

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In the 1960s, such behavior was still frowned upon. Whenever Cary Grant spent his vacations here, Grace Kelly would swing by from Monaco to visit him. With two dogs on a leash and a stylish hat topping her outfit, she was a vision of elegance – yet nobody harassed her. In general, the hotel demanded a certain level of formality: back in the day, gentlemen had to wear a jacket and tie to dinner (even today, long-sleeved shirts and trousers are required in the restaurant). Any misdemeanors tended to be overlooked by staff. Tarzan actor Johnny Weissmuller was known for emptying a bottle of whisky every day at the bar and performing his famous jungle cry.

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These days, health and fitness trends have replaced drinking binges – gone are the days when Bruce Willis would announce a dinner for 30 guests only to turn up with a pack of 300 people. They partied the night away, much to the dismay of the hotel director, who watched most of the wine in his cellar ebb away. It was not uncommon for hotel directors to become moral guardians from time to time: in 1998, when Kate Moss strolled through the lobby in nothing more than a bikini, she was told to cover up (and then banned after she trashed her room in protest). Hollywood actor David Carradine (Kill Bill) once held a Buddhist ceremony in his suite with plenty of candles – by the end of it, the room had caught fire, and he was thrown out by the director.

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Among the peculiarities of the five-star hotel is its skepticism towards modern ways. Up until a few years ago, the only accepted way to pay was by using cash, and access to the Internet only made its way to the rooms two decades after it had become commonplace elsewhere. Guests are here to relax, and any ostentatious displays of work might be unwelcome. After all, it’s not proper to disturb other guests taking their cup of coffee on the terrace with dull business matters. A Zoom call? Mon dieu, non!

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You will often spot Bentleys, Ferraris, Rolls-Royces and Maseratis parked on the premises, but in rare cases a guest with a camper van stops by. This happened in 2003, when Danish film director Lars von Trier booked his stay. As he suffers from severe flight anxiety, he decided to drive down to the Riviera himself, parking the enormous vehicle at the employee parking lot. Supposedly, he even spent some nights in the camper, even though he had paid for a room. Only in the winter would he have had difficulty checking in: the hotel is closed during that time for a few months. 

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc
167-165 Bd J. F. Kennedy, 06160 Antibes, France
Tel.: +33 4 93 61 39 01
Web: oetkercollection.com
Price: Doubles from approx. €1200 per night