Are these the best gourmet trips this fall?
Exploring new places is not just good for the soul, but also a feast for the senses. From wine tastings to truffle hunts to working on an olive farm, these extraordinary destinations immerse you in a world of culinary delights.
24 October 2023
SUMPTUOUS WINES IN SPAIN
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On the banks of the Douro river in Spain, there is a veritable El Dorado for connoisseurs of fine wines. Situated in a former monastery surrounded by extensive vineyards, everything here – from the spa to the award-winning cuisine – is inspired by winemaking. The peaceful silence that reigns in the vineyards of the former abbey is broken only by the gentle buzz of bees in the lavender hedges lining the paths. Two hours north of Madrid on the banks of the Douro Valley far away from the daily hustle and bustle, surrounded by unspoilt nature as far as the eye can see, is the Hotel "Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine", a Romanesque abbey dating from the twelfth century. A place where time seems to pass more slowly.
© Javier Peñas
The grand premises not only offer a combination of modern comfort and historic art but also provide the perfect relaxing getaway, replete with exceptional culinary highlights. Guests to the abbey can enjoy a visit to the monks’ garden and may pick their own organic vegetables, which will then instantly be made into a fresh salad. In September and October, you also have the opportunity of helping with the grape harvest. Donning a straw hat and overalls, you pick the ripe grapes by hand and can whet your appetite for the wine they will eventually become.
© Javier Peñas
In every way, wine is the star of the show at the Abadía Retuerta – even the treatments in the Spa Sommelier are designed around the excellent vintages produced in the surrounding area. The dining experience at the hotel, curated by head chef Marc Segarra, is wholly inspired by the selection in their wine cellar. And with over 400 different wines to choose from, there is no lack of variety. From avant-garde Michelin-starred cuisine at the Refectorio, the former monks’ dining room to traditional fare at the Vinoteca, a charming contemporary tavern, a trip to the Douro Valley is as varied and multifaceted as the glorious wines it produces each year.
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Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine
Sardón de Duero, 47340 Valladolid, Spain
Tel.: +43 6414 3000
Web: abadia-retuerta.com
Price: Doubles from ca. € 569 per night
TUSCAN TRUFFLE TREATS
© Georg Tappeiner
This central Italian region is not only the heartland of the Renaissance, it is also the source of countless culinary specialties. These delights include fine wines, high-quality olive oil, and exquisite truffles. The first glimpse of the "Castelfalfi" estate, nestled in the unmistakable landscape of Tuscany, is enough to take anyone’s breath away. Looking for all the world like a medieval village, the hotel and a modest number of villas encompass both the traditional and the modern. Historic exteriors, with interiors showcasing contemporary luxury are surrounded by glorious countryside as far as the eye can see.
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In tune with this, the hotel’s restaurants provide an exceptional experience. The restaurants are based on a zero food miles philosophy, which simply means that most of the ingredients come from the immediate vicinity. You can actually taste the farm-to-table quality in every mouthful, whether you eat in the gourmet-oriented Olivina or in the more down-to-earth Il Rosmarino, which appropriately champions traditional Tuscan dishes.
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However, things get even more exciting when you take a look behind the scenes of the agricultural estate. In addition to the top-tier olive oil and amazing wines that are grown and made here, you can try seven of Italy’s nine types of truffle, and, if you’re lucky, you may even find them yourself. Accompanied by a guide and a truffle hound, you can wander the fragrant Tuscan forests, following the lead of the dog on the scent of the bulbous fungi that grow underground. The knowledgeable tartufaio, or truffle-hunting expert, not only leads the expedition but will share interesting facts that will ensure you the role of truffle connoisseur at the next dinner party.
Castelfalfi
Località Castelfalfi, 50050 Montaione, FI, Italy
Tel.: +39 0571 892000
Web: castelfalfi.com
Price: Doubles from ca. €382 per night
PORTUGUESE PLEASURES
© Ash James
Here in Alentejo, Portugal, the focus is very much on artisanal agriculture and rural craftsmanship: Besides learning about the secrets of the region’s traditional cuisine, guests can also help with the olive harvest and encounter bees up close. Even if sleeping late has its charms, it’s definitely worth getting up early at the Hotel "São Lourenço do Barrocal", just to watch the historic agricultural estate be kissed awake by the first rays of the morning sun. What’s more, a colorful outdoor breakfast awaits – and a day full of activities: In addition to horseback rides, picnics, birdwatching and numerous creative crafts like pottery, weaving and flower arranging, guests are welcome to lend a hand with the harvest.
© Ash James
The farm in Alentejo, Portugal, has been in the same family for more than 200 years and makes you feel as if you’ve stopped by to visit good friends. With its fertile soil, varied terrain and traditions that go all the way back to the Neolithic, the region is often aptly described as the country’s bread basket. Here, farming and honest hospitality are in people’s blood; luxury doesn’t come in the form of opulent interiors, but in an authentic ambience that reflects the down-to-earth character and history of Alentejo.
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If you come in the months of October and November you can help with the olive harvest. Honey is produced here too – so be sure not to miss this intriguing opportunity to get an insight into the fascinating world of beekeeping and its essential contribution to the conservation of our environment. Plus, together with the friendly kitchen staff, you can stroll through the seemingly endless garden and pick the fresh ingredients you’ll be using in the traditional cookery course afterward. Wine is grown on the estate too – and it goes without saying that you get to try it! In the restaurants, the focus is on simplicity and the region’s diverse flavors; based on methods that have been handed down through the generations, the farm-to-table fare demonstrates just how remarkable Portugal’s cuisine can be.
© Ash James
São Lourenço do Barrocal
São Lourenço do Barrocal, 7200-177, Portugal
Tel.: +351 266 247 140
Web: barrocal.pt
Price: Doubles from ca. €320 per night
This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Fall 2023.