© Ruben Ortiz

The hotel’s location on what is possibly the most beautiful side of Lake Como is spectacular, and the property extends to the lakeshore below the picture-book town of Moltrasio. The terraced garden with cedars, box trees trimmed into spheres, palm trees and a pool overlooking the glistening water of the lake is delightful. Despite the splendor of the exterior, arriving in the lobby is still a special moment. It opens to a central, red-carpeted staircase extending to three floors with half a dozen high windows and chandeliers almost as tall.

© Ricky Monti

RESTORED ARISTOCRATIC PALACE

© Ruben Ortiz

Built in 1787 by Count Andrea Lucini Passalacqua, whose coat of arms contained the three fish that have been adopted as the hotel’s monogram, the property was purchased in 1829 by the composer Vincenzo Bellini, who wrote his most famous operas, Norma and La Sonnambula, here. There were various subsequent owners, and famous visitors, including Sir Winston Churchill. In 2018, the Italian hotel dynasty De Santis acquired the property, and daughter Valentina, who also owns the legendary "Grand Hotel Tremezzo", spent several years transforming it into an exclusive boutique hotel with 24 exquisite suites. Despite the boundless luxury, authentic Italian hospitality remains at the heart of the concept. Guests are allowed to go into the kitchen to help themselves or to prepare a snack if hunger strikes. Given the high standard of catering provided, however, guests are unlikely to be hungry for long.

IN THE COMPOSER’S SUITE

© Stefan-Giftthaler

Valentina De Santis personally supervised every detail of the restoration. For the furnishings, she selected valuable antiques and works of art and made liberal use of high-quality materials produced locally by top Italian artisans. The opulent baroque interiors demonstrate that less isn’t always more: Sparkling chandeliers, heavy curtains, carefully restored frescoes and color palettes ranging from purple and gold through to cream and soft blue create an aristocratic ambience.

Traditional Cotto Lombardo tiles in the bedrooms and seats upholstered in ornate Rubelli fabrics link the ambiance of the interior to the hotel’s surroundings. Twelve of the suites are in the villa overlooking the garden and lake, including the palatial 250-square-meter Bellini Suite with its wall frescoes, a grand piano and sumptuous Murano chandeliers, and an opulent bathroom with mirrored walls and lake views. This is where Vincenzo Bellini wrote his music in the 19th century. Eight other rooms and suites work their magic in the Palazzo in the heart of the property. Right on the lake, there are another four exquisite rooms available in the Casa al Lago. The restaurant and gardens are restricted to hotel guests only, as are the morning yoga session in the magnolia garden and the Fiat 500 convertible for traveling around the property.

© Ruben Ortiz

Bellagio and Como are within easy reach – but thanks to the pool designed by J.J. Martin (which, like the conservatory she also designed, offers a fresh visual counterpoint to the baroque suites), the spa housed in a former cowshed and the hotel’s excellent, yet down-to-earth Italian cuisine – who would want to leave the Passalacqua unless they really have to? 

© Stefan Giftthaler

Passalacqua
Via Besana 59, 22010 Moltrasio, Italy
Tel.: +39 031 44 311
Web: passalacqua.it
Price: Suite from € 800